Published at: Jun 21, 2024
Last updated: Nov 24, 2024
Having some sense of the different choices you have with shirts and how they affect outlook is a great way of elevating your style sense. Let's dive into some of the most common shirt categories, fabrics, styles and hopefully you will feel more confident about what shirt to put on the next time you are planning to wear a shirt.
Fabrics and weaves
Like all other garments, shirts come in a variety of different fabrics and weaves. Here are some of the most common ones, but it's worth noting that you will find an abundance of other blends as well.
- Poplin - thin, smooth, and flat, making it an excellent option for a professional shirt. Generally quite light.
- Twill - a diagonal weave that will likely have a little bit of shine. Is more resistant to wrinkles and drapes more easily than poplin.
- Oxford - Heavier thread and looser weave. It has a rough texture, making it a non-formal shirt fabric.
- Denim - Is actually a twill weave, but with a softer and lighter fabric than in your jeans.
- Flannel - Often brushed twill or poplin, and while cotton is the primary fabric, they can blend in wool or cashmere for added warmth.
- Seersucker - A very light fabric with a bumpy appearance made to promote air flow.
- Linen - Very breathable and dry looking. Wrinkles easily, making it seem more relaxed than formal.
For more details and examples, you can read about this over at Proper Cloth.
Threads and ply
Shirts, like your suit (or even bedsheets), can vary in their thread count. A higher thread count means a smoother, silkier, and often more expensive fabric.
The term ply describes how many yarns are twisted together to form a single thread. If you buy a two-ply shirt, it means the threads are made from two yarns twisted together. Two-ply fabrics are generally considered superior to single-ply, but for a touch of luxury, you can opt for the even finer three-ply.
Construction details
Shirts come in a variety of styles and feature customisable elements, each of which can significantly influence the shirt's formality and versatility. Some details are subtle, but they still play a crucial role in defining your unique style. We will have a look at the most important ones.
If you are unsure about the any of the names or wordings when talking about shirts, refer to this chart.
The collar
This chart highlights the parts of a shirt you’ll often discuss with your tailor. The first, and perhaps most prominent, design choice is the collar. There are numerous options, but it’s worth noting that even when stores use the same names, the size and appearance can vary significantly.
In Norway, the most common collars seem to be the cutaway and the button-down. The button-down collar is often paired with an Oxford shirt, creating a less formal look compared to many other collars. This might explain why it’s a popular choice for office wear, with the Norwegian office attire being quite relaxed and informal.
I’ve also noticed a growing trend in button-under collars, which feature a hidden button underneath the collar fabric. An interesting advantage of this style is that it allows for a slightly larger collar while keeping it neatly secured in place at all times.
Cuffs
The second most prominent design element to consider is the cuffs. They play a significant role in determining the overall formality of your shirt.
In Norway, French cuffs are typically reserved for weddings or formal events, whereas in London, it’s not uncommon to see them worn in the office. French cuffs also offer the opportunity to add a personal touch with cufflinks, allowing you to express your style in a subtle yet distinctive way.
Placket
When it comes to plackets, you don’t often need to deviate from the most common styles: the French placket and the front placket.
The French placket is a versatile choice, suitable for both the office and more formal occasions. On the other hand, if you’re aiming for a very casual look—such as with a relaxed linen shirt—the front placket might be the better option.
A well-tailored shirt is to a man what a perfect little black dress is to a woman: timeless, versatile, and indispensable."
We have now covered the most important pieces of the shirt. There are of course more details you can change when using a tailor, like adding a monogram, picking buttons, using a split yoke, using darts or back pleats - but these things are a bit more related to the fit and the personalisation of the shirt. If you have some opinions about fabric, the collar, the cuffs and the placket, you have come very far in your design process and your tailor should be able to get a good sense of your style.
I'll leave you with a couple of quick tips:
- If you’re a shirt-tucker, ensure the hem is long enough. Nothing is more frustrating than a shirt that constantly rides up from your trousers.
- Consider versatility when designing your shirt, unless it’s for a very specific use case. A spread collar works in almost every scenario, but a wingtip collar certainly does not.
- Keep temperature in mind. Fabrics and weaves have different properties when it comes to temperature management.
- Always iron your shirt. Always.
Cheers!
